Lisbon, a city that effortlessly marries history with modernity, welcomes visitors with its modern airport nestled remarkably close to the heart of the city. A brief 20-minute cab ride deposits me at the doorstep of my lodging, the fittingly named Sublime Lisboa. This recently unveiled luxury boutique hotel, housing just 15 rooms, stands as an ideal launching point to delve into the allure of one of Europe’s most captivating capitals of the moment.
While Lisbon is renowned for its wallet-friendly charm, resplendent architectural marvels, forward-thinking museums, lush green spaces, invigorating waterfront, and an atmosphere imbued with cosmopolitan ease, my focus lies on a different facet of its appeal. My mission: to unearth the truth behind Lisbon’s reputation as a gourmet paradise.
Establishing itself as a gastronomic haven, the city boasts a culinary identity that ranges from refined fine dining to spirited street fare, from age-old local recipes to the tantalizing tastes of its colonial past in South America, Asia, and Africa.
For the intrepid culinary aficionado, a tantalizing medley of choices awaits: Delectable chargrilled sardines and sumptuous octopus stew, imaginative Brazilian-Japanese fusion in the form of tacos and makis teeming with amberjack ceviche, velvety guacamole, and zesty chipotle sauce. Then there’s the beloved Portuguese “seafood rice,” a savory blend reminiscent of paella and risotto, brimming with mussels, clams, and plump prawns. The daring palates among us shouldn’t overlook the succulent percebes, a prehistoric-looking delicacy of goose barnacles, or the caracois, plump snails cooked to perfection with piquant garlic and fiery piri-piri.
And for those with a sweet tooth, Lisbon’s desserts are a veritable nirvana, with the emblematic Pasteis de Natal, a velvety custard tart, reigning supreme.
My inaugural evening finds me in the company of Lisbon’s culinary luminary, Chef Olivier da Costa. With an expansive portfolio comprising five local establishments and a global presence spanning 24 restaurants from the vibrant streets of Brazil to the bustling corners of Bangkok, from the sophistication of London to the romance of Paris, and an imminent Middle Eastern debut slated for the upcoming year, da Costa stands as a culinary impresario on the world stage.
The curtain rises at his flagship establishment, Seen Restaurant and Bar, perched regally on a rooftop offering panoramic vistas that are tailor-made for twilight libations and the aromatic allure of shisha. Within the vivacious dining chamber, da Costa passionately imparts, “This is where Lisbon gathers to see and be seen, a haven of cuisine that pulses with exhilaration and creativity, eschewing formality for an unadulterated epicurean experience.”
In his gastronomic symphony, da Costa seamlessly interlaces Portugal’s exceptional ingredients with intriguing flavors from his global sojourns. A king crab roll infused with the tantalizing heat of wasabi and jalapeno peppers, or a Brazilian-inflected deep-fried tapioca accompanied by locally aged cheese and a piquant guava jam.
A divergent ambiance awaits patrons in his expansive XXL dining domain, lovingly characterized by da Costa as “the cherished jewel of my culinary realm, where patrons feel as though they’ve been welcomed into the abode of a Portuguese family for a heartfelt dinner.” And as for his claim to offering the finest bacalhau salt cod in the city, served in a generous portion smothered in smoked peppers and confit onions, perched atop a bed of crisped turnip leaves – I find myself wholeheartedly concurring, as the experience proves utterly irresistible.
