George Matthew’s journey into cocoa farming nearly ended in failure, but an unexpected turn of events changed the course of his agricultural career. In the 1970s, Dr. Matthew inherited a rubber plantation in Kerala, southern India, a time when falling rubber prices were pushing the industry into decline. After a decade of losses, he decided to experiment with cocoa cultivation in hopes of revitalizing his farm.
Initially, his efforts didn’t succeed. The cocoa saplings he planted struggled to survive, and the added challenge of squirrels raiding the plants only worsened the situation. However, these squirrel-induced disruptions inadvertently helped. The animals scattered the cocoa seeds across the land, which grew into much healthier and stronger plants than the original saplings. “The trick was in sowing the seeds,” Dr. Matthew reflects. Today, he manages 6,000 thriving cocoa trees across 50 acres.
While India’s climate is suitable for cocoa cultivation, the country accounts for just 1% of the world’s cocoa bean production. The majority of global supply is concentrated in West Africa, where Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana produce more than half of the world’s annual output. Despite having a domestic chocolate and confectionery industry, India can only supply a fraction of the beans needed.
The fragmented nature of cocoa farming in India, with many small holdings rather than large-scale plantations, hampers efficient production. Renny Jacob, chairman of India Cocoa, a company that has been growing and processing cocoa beans for over 30 years, highlights that farmers often struggle with post-harvest processes. The fermentation of cocoa beans, which significantly impacts the flavor of chocolate, is a step that many Indian farmers do not manage well.
“Cocoa fermentation is a critical process in chocolate production,” says Sarin Partrick, CEO of India Cocoa. “It transforms raw beans into a form suitable for making chocolate, influencing their flavor, aroma, and color.”
To address these challenges, the Indian government has rolled out several initiatives aimed at improving both the quantity and quality of cocoa production. These include investments in hybrid cocoa plants, which are more productive than traditional varieties, and farmer training programs to enhance skills in growing and processing cocoa beans.
Dr. Femina, a government official in charge of cocoa development, underscores the potential for Indian farmers to capitalize on cocoa cultivation. “There is a vast opportunity for Indian farmers to enter into cocoa cultivation and avail the benefits,” she says.
The private sector is also investing in cocoa research. At Kerala Agriculture University, Dr. Minimol J.S. is working with Cadbury to develop hybrid cocoa varieties. The project, which crosses existing high-performing varieties with exotic species, has led to the creation of 15 new hybrid strains. These disease-resistant seeds are not only more productive but also drought-tolerant, withstanding extreme temperatures of up to 40°C.
“The global average yield is 0.25 kilograms per tree per year. In Kerala, we get 2.5 kilograms per tree, and in Andhra and Telangana, we see yields of four to five kilograms per tree,” Dr. Minimol explains.
India’s cocoa bean production has surged in recent years, reaching 110,000 tonnes in 2023—an increase of 40% since 2015. However, local demand from chocolate and confectionery makers is growing at a rate of 15% annually, and the supply still falls short.
New chocolate companies, such as Kocoatrait, are emerging in India’s growing cocoa industry. Founded in 2019 and based in Chennai, Kocoatrait exclusively uses Indian-grown cocoa beans. The company promotes the environmental benefits of sourcing beans locally, which have a smaller carbon footprint compared to those imported from Africa. Additionally, Indian cocoa beans are cheaper and have a unique flavor profile.
Kocoatrait founder Nitin Chordia emphasizes the importance of improving post-harvest practices. “We are constantly focusing on better fermentation and drying techniques for cocoa farmers,” he says. However, Chordia acknowledges that Indian farmers still face challenges in competing with international players in the bulk cocoa bean market.
While there have been improvements in India’s cocoa production, it will likely take several more years before the country’s fine-flavour cocoa beans gain large-scale international recognition.
Dr. Matthew, reflecting on his own cocoa farming journey, notes that cocoa is a difficult plant to cultivate. “Last year I had no yield. No farmer can depend solely on cocoa. One has to plant other trees alongside it,” he advises. Despite the challenges, he remains optimistic. “The future is bright, with huge demand,” he says, adding that a multinational company has already approached him to buy his cocoa beans.
As India continues to scale its cocoa production, the industry’s future looks promising, with increased domestic demand and opportunities for international growth.
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