In the wake of Brexit, British food exporters are engaged in a determined effort to promote their products in Asia, but the task is formidable. Despite enthusiasm and quality offerings, the UK lags far behind European counterparts in both sales and reputation across the continent.
Stephen Jones, managing director of cheese exporters Somerdale International, emphasizes the uphill battle: “It’s a massive job educating people.” At the FHA Food and Beverage Trade Show in Singapore, Jones introduces locals to British cheeses like Stinking Bishop and Wensleydale, acknowledging the longstanding dominance of European rivals in the Asian market.
The disparity is vividly apparent at the trade show, where Italy’s extravagant pavilion overshadows the modest UK presence. Italian Michelin-starred chefs and MasterChef winners engage with visitors, reflecting a strategic blend of commerce and diplomacy. Dante Brandi, Italian ambassador to Singapore and Brunei, underscores the integral role of such events in Italy’s diplomatic outreach.
Giuseppina Pravato, who pioneered the introduction of panettone in Southeast Asia, recalls the painstaking effort required to establish Italian culinary traditions abroad. “Twenty years ago, it was basically just me,” Pravato reflects, underscoring the contrast between Italy’s long-term investment and Britain’s current efforts.
Italy’s substantial lead in food exports is stark; last year, Italy exported over €64.4bn globally, compared to the UK’s £24.4bn. British exporters bemoan insufficient government support, contrasting with fully funded initiatives by European counterparts.
While UK food exports to Asia have grown, Italy’s exports surged by 36%, buoyed by advantageous EU free trade agreements. Despite Brexit optimism, the UK’s trade deal with the CPTPP offers marginal economic benefits, with the EU market remaining substantially larger.
The allure of Asian markets is undeniable, as rising incomes and evolving tastes drive demand for western cuisine. Japnit Singh, chief operating officer at Spire Research and Consulting, underscores this evolving landscape.
Post-Brexit trade strategy centers on Asian markets, but challenges persist in European trade due to regulatory hurdles. The UK government maintains a forward-looking perspective, positioning Asian markets as supplementary to EU trade.
Stephen Jones remains optimistic about the Union Jack’s international appeal for prestige and food safety, particularly in China. For him and other British exporters, success in Asia hinges on patient, incremental education—one piece of Wensleydale at a time.
The British food industry’s journey in Asia post-Brexit is marked by ambition, tempered by the enduring challenges of market competition and geopolitical shifts. As the UK navigates this new era, its exporters remain determined to carve a niche in a dynamic and evolving culinary landscape.
