Kolkata, India — On a recent visit to Kolkata, I made it a point to explore Tangra, one of the city’s two Chinatowns, famed not just for its history but for the vibrant Chinese food culture that persists there. Once a bustling hub of tanneries with its maze of narrow lanes, Tangra is now the destination for those seeking authentic, budget-friendly Chinese cuisine. But the real story lies in the heart of Tangra, where industrial-scale production of the essential sauces that define Chinese cuisine continues to thrive.
The story of Tangra’s Chinese sauces begins in the mid-20th century. After World War II, F.S. Young, a Guangdong native, moved to what was then called Calcutta, drawn by the growing Chinese community. He soon realized that the city’s 30,000-strong Chinese population lacked consistent access to quality soy sauce, a vital ingredient in their cooking. In 1954, he founded the Sing Cheung Sauce Factory, a pioneering establishment that produced soy sauce using traditional methods, including a lengthy aging process akin to that of whiskey, to achieve the perfect flavor.
The ingredients for these sauces were sourced from Sikkim, North Bengal, and the northeastern regions of India. Initially catering to the local Chinese community, Sing Cheung soon became a staple in Chinese restaurants across India. Today, F.S. Young’s nephew, Chong Hsin Wong, continues to run the business at 69 years old, overseeing the production of 15 different types of sauces, including the beloved kasundi mustard paste, a favorite among Bengalis. Wong takes pride in his company’s ability to adapt traditional recipes while experimenting with local ingredients, evident in unique offerings like coriander chili sauce.
Another key player in Tangra’s sauce production is Pou Chong Foods, founded in 1958 by Lee Shih Chuan, another Guangdong native. Lee is credited with creating the iconic green chili sauce, a crucial component of Kolkata’s famous kathi rolls, or meat wraps. Pou Chong has since expanded its repertoire, now offering a wide range of sauces, including a vegetarian oyster sauce made from mushrooms.
Despite the rise of multinational brands, both Sing Cheung and Pou Chong have maintained their dominance. Janice Lee, who now runs Pou Chong, dismisses any concerns about newer, multinational-backed competitors. “The authentic flavors we offer cannot be replicated,” she asserts. Pou Chong’s success, like that of Sing Cheung, speaks for itself. What started as a single factory in Tangra has grown into two sprawling units in Kolkata, churning out large quantities of sauces daily.
Interestingly, both businesses rely on an old-fashioned approach to marketing: word-of-mouth. “Advertising budget? Zero,” says Wong with a laugh. “We let the quality of our products speak for themselves.”
However, the future of these iconic businesses is uncertain. Wong expresses concern over the diminishing Chinese population in Kolkata, with many younger members of the community emigrating, particularly to Canada. As the local population shrinks, property developers have descended on Tangra, replacing the area’s traditional character with high-rise buildings, threatening to displace the community’s heritage and way of life.
Despite these challenges, the enduring success of Sing Cheung and Pou Chong demonstrates the resilience of both the community and its culinary traditions. The sauces of Tangra continue to play a vital role in preserving the authentic tastes of China, even as the neighborhood around them evolves.
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